Agra needs no introduction to most visitors to India, but there is plenty to see beyond the Taj – read my Agra travel guide for all my top Agra travel tips for getting the most out of your time here, enjoying your stay, and discovering the best of Agra beyond the Taj (and crowds!)
Agra Travel Guide – An Introduction
If there’s one place in India that every traveller eventually makes it to, it has to be Agra.
For some – it’s the highlight of a long awaited India trip. For others, it’s with more reluctance or version of I can’t really leave India without seeing the Taj kind of sentiment.
My own story with Agra was fairly simple. Having seen the major tourist sights in Agra on my early trips to India – and witnessed a fair amount of the over-tourism and hassle, I wasn’t really in any hurry to return. It’s not for nothing that Agra has something of a bad reputation among tourists to India for the number of touts and scams that prevail(ed) here.
That was until I came across Ekaa Villa in Agra and their work to show visitors a different side of Agra – one with fewer crowds, less focus on the Taj Mahal, and more focus on culture, community-centric tourism. Reason enough to tempt me back to see how Agra had changed over the years, as a result of the Pandemic, and to find out if my opinion of Agra would fare better a few years on (spoiler – it did)!
In this Agra travel blog I’ll cover where to visit, my top travel tips for visiting Agra, advice for female travellers and much more – read on for what you need to know while planning your trip to Agra!
The Best Time to Visit Agra
Set in the heart of northern-central India, Agra sees similar weather to Delhi, but with more variation in heat and cold. At time of writing this blog in May, temperatures in Agra are up to almost 50 degrees celsius at the height of summer, as India is experiencing a heat wave. Suffice to say, I do not recommend visiting Agra in April, May or June as these are when temperatures soar.
The most popular (and best weather-wise) time to visit Agra is between late October and early March. In December & January, Agra gets cold (as in you’ll need a coat cold) and this is when Agra also sees a lot of morning fog. For ideal misty morning Taj viewing conditions, you want both sun and morning mist (seeing the mist rising and evaporating over the Taj is something quite special), which can be more likely to happen with warmer weather in February than in January, when the mist can hang about.
Visiting Agra in monsoon (July – late September) is another option, but weather can still be very hot and sticky (high humidity), when it’s not raining.
Whichever time of year you choose to come to Agra, I recommend avoiding weekends, as this is when the majority of Indian domestic tourists travel, and the city and major sights get very crowded. Note that the Taj Mahal is closed every Friday, and special fees and conditions apply if you want to see the Taj during the full moon.
Where to Stay in Agra
For me, this time one of the highlights of my Agra trip was where I chose to stay.
When it comes to choosing between Agra hotels, unfortunately the options are not always inspiring. There’s a dearth of large (and mostly bland) chain hotels that cater to the wedding and conference market in Agra, and there’s the backpacker hostels of Taj Ganj (some with some great rooftop views it has to be said).
But there’s not much in-between, that has character, represents Agra’s culture, or has the real warmth of hospitality that makes travel in India so special. So I was so happy to stumble upon Ekaa Villa Boutique Hotel & Kitchen which is Agra’s first boutique hotel.
Located in the Taj Nagri phase 2 area just 10 drive minutes from the Taj itself, Ekaa Villa is a peaceful retreat away from the tourist throngs and busy streets of Agra. With just 13 beautifully designed rooms, this boutique hotel reflects the city around it in its design and decor, with a contemporary twist. Rooms feature huge comfy beds, Taj frames on the walls and rain showers. There’s a library on the top flor with some great books and photography of Agra (perfect for unwinding on a hot afternoon or after a busy day), and the restaurant area includes a courtyard area for al fresco dining.
The hospitality here is second to none, with the staff seeming to know exactly when you really need one of their thirst quenching iced-teas, a winning formula when combined with the knowledge and passion for Agra that is infectious from its owners.
I highly recommend staying here if you can – and try out one of their Experience packages (see more below in getting off the beaten path in Agra).
Click here to check rates & availability for Ekaa Villa Boutique Hotel
Top Tips for Visiting Agra
As a popular tourist destination in India, Agra needs some pre-planning, especially if its one of your first stops in India. Unfortunately as a place that sees a lot of visitors on whistlestop tours who haven’t done their research, over-charging is common practice, and scams are not uncommon.
Here are some of my tips for seeing the better side of Agra. You can find additional considerations for (solo) female travellers below, too.
- Stay longer than a day. There’s so much more to see in Agra than just the Taj Mahal and the fort, I really recommend staying 2-3 days here if you possibly can to get a real sense of Agra.
- Pre-book your Agra accommodation. The usual rackets operated by rickshaw drivers who will try to take you to hotels that pay them commission is a problem here, which can be avoided if you pre-book and insist on being taken there.
- Negotiate with rickshaw drivers – the prices quoted at popular tourist sights and at railway stations on arrival will be high, so barter them down (by at least 50%). I recommend organising a pickup through your hotel from the train station or airport to cut down on hassle.
- Check the weather and dress accordingly – Agra has very seasonal weather, so you’ll need a decent coat/jacket in winter, and light cotton in hot months. If in doubt, pack layers you can peel off as the weather warms up during the day.
- Ignore people who approach you offering to be your guide / show you around / show you a better view, take your photos, claim to know you (eg from your hotel), or just start following you and telling you about things – in all of these cases people are trying to either hire themselves as your guide (will expect payment) or are unfolding some kind of scam.
- Agra is not the best place for souvenir shopping. Because of the high tourist footfall, souvenirs are overpriced here – try to buy in other parts of India from local crafts (wo)men directly if you can.
- Do enjoy the amazing local food. Agra is famous for its mithai (sweets) and milk produce – Lassi, rabri & hot milk as well as for its non-veg (meat) based food. Pick restaurants and stalls that are busy and have a high turnover of customers, or book a food tour with a local guide who can take you the the best spots. If you stay at Ekaa (above) they can take you for delicious local treats.
- Factor in some down time. As with so many of India’s top destinations, there’s so much to see and do here it can be tempting to pack your days solid with sightseeing – but for best results I find some downtime is helpful to reflect on all you’ve experienced and seen, or just catch an afternoon nap – especially important if you’re travelling to Agra during hotter months!
- Buy your monument tickets in advance, online – see more on how to do it below.
Places to Visit in Agra
Agra is dotted with beautiful monuments, the old city, gardens, sunset spots – far more than you might think on an initial glance! As the former capital of Mughal India (from 1501 until 1638 when Shah Jahan built a new capital in Delhi) , there is arguably nowhere better in India to see stunning Mughal architecture.
Ticketing
One thing to note when planning your visits to the various monuments in Agra and around (including Fatehpur Sikri), is that tickets now have to be bought online and are not available at the monuments themselves (you’ll find signs with a QR code that you can scan). Head to this website to buy your tickets – they can be booked up to a week in advance. If you have trouble with your card being accepted, you could ask your hotel to try and book tickets for you on an Indian card and add them to your bill (foreign cards seem to be hit and miss if they are accepted or not).
You can also buy skip the line tickets here which include an English-speaking guide
The Taj Mahal
There may be far more to see in Agra beyond the Taj, but you still won’t want to miss it. No matter how many photos you’ve seen (and even if you’ve visited before), there’s nothing that quite prepares you for the first shining white glimpse of the Taj Mahal through the entrance gate, glinting in the misty morning light.
The best time to visit the Taj Mahal, without question, is for sunrise. The monument is open sunrise to sunset, Saturday to Thursday (the Taj is closed every Friday). Sunrise is a little loose as a time… so it’s worth getting there a bit before. In late march, we arrived at the Taj at 06.30 and were a little late, 6am would have been the perfect time to arrive. The reason why sunrise is the best time is a) for the beautiful morning light and b) it’s the only time of day you’ll see the Taj with fewer crowds.
There are three entrances to the Taj Mahal – South (closest to the budget hotels at Taj Ganj), West, and East (closer to the higher end hotels located in the south east of the city). Note that regular auto-rickshaws are not allowed within 500m of the Taj due to pollution, so you’ll have to walk the last stretch or take an e-rickshaw. At Shilpgram (east entrance) the e-rickshaw cost is included in foreigner ticket prices.